|

2013 race stories, race reports & news articles:
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/20130327/forget-lance-alaskan-badass-perfect-beer-commercial
MountainBike Radio Interview with winner Jay Petervary
Girls & Gears on Mountain Bike Radio Interview with Eszter Horanyi
Outside interview with Jay Petervary
Alaska Dispatch by Craig Medred who was on the trail by snowmobile during the event.
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-invitational-veteran-leaves-gadgets-behind-long-cold-walk-toward-nome Feb. 23, 2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-trail-invitational-endurance-race-away-civilization
Feb. 23,2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-invitational-winter-smacks-racers-bikers-push-ahead
Feb. 24,2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-trail-invitational-surviving-first-night
Feb. 25, 2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/defending-iditarod-invitational-champs-run-rest-strategy-keeps-frontrunners-guessing Feb. 26, 2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-trail-invitational-why-would-anybody-race-it
Feb. 26,2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/jay-petervary-wins-human-powered-iditarod-ultramarathon-across-alaska Feb. 27, 2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/after-nasty-frostbite-last-year-canadian-cyclist-returns-iditarod-invitational Feb. 27, 2013
www.alaskadispatch.com/article/20130303/hows-alaskas-iditarod-trail-year-call-it-snowy-superhighway-nikolai March 3,2013
Anchorage Daily News
www.adn.com/2013/02/27/2805463/idahos-jay-petervary-smashes-iditarod.
Fairbanks News Miner by Tim Mowry
http://www.newsminer.com/sports/iditarod/less snow meant less walking
March 1,2013
Half Past Done by Jill Homer
http://halfpastdone.com/2013/02/15/run-thousands-the-persistence-of-tim-hewitt/
http://halfpastdone.com/2013/02/20/a-brief-history-of-iditabike/
http://halfpastdone.com/2013/02/25/iditarod-trail-invitational-launches/
http://halfpastdone.com/2013/02/26/iditarod-trail-flyover/
http://halfpastdone.com/2013/02/27/jay-petervary-shatters-iti-course-record/
http://halfpastdone.com/2013/03/01/david-johnston-wins-iti-foot-race/
http://halfpastdone.com/2013/03/10/iditarod-racers-press-on-toward-nome/
Eszter Horanyi's blog
Steve Ansell blog
Joe Grant's race recap part I
Joe Grant's race recap part II
Charlie Farrow's race recap
Jason Buffington's race report
coverage by Mountain Bike Radio Colorado
APRN Fairbanks Emily Schwing
www.alaskapublic.org/2013/02/25/first-6-cyclists-check-into-winterlake-lodge-checkpoint-on-iditarod-trail-invitational/
2012 news articles & race stories:
Great report by runner Beat Jegerlehner
http://beultra.com/wordpress/ Awesome map with sticky notes!
Geoff Roes first runner race report:
http://www.irunfar.com/2012/03/geoff-roes-2012-iditarod-trail-invitational-350-miles-race-report.html
Cyclist Louise Kobin's race recap:
http://www.larutalou.blogspot.com/2012/03/iditarod-trail-invitational-2012.html
Phil Hofstetter's (2nd place) reflections:
http://nomemisadventures.blogspot.com/2012/03/iti-2012-knik-fingerlake.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/iditarod-trail-invitational-2012-a-769003-post9010891.html#poststop
interesting thread on the fatbike forum on MTBR with lots of input by race veterans such as Mike Curiak.
Alaska Dispatch articles:
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-invitational-king-alaska-adventure-races-kicks-sunday
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-invitational-fat-biker-carries-dads-ashes-toward-alaska-interior
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/slow-going-iditarod-trail-ultramarathon-cyclists-hikers
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/epic-snow-along-trail-defeats-iditarod-invitational-veterans
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/aging-attorney-limps-rainy-pass-leading-iditarod-invitational
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/human-powered-iditarod-foot-soldiers-put-fight-bikers-will-win-again
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/chase-finally-alaskas-iditarod-ultramarathon
http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/iditarod-invitational-alaska-ultra-distance-running-legend-geoff-roes-leads-across-farewell-
Frontiersman:
http://www.frontiersman.com/sports/willow-endurance-runners-conquer-miles-of-iditarod-trail/article_7fb2d944-69b3-11e1-8ddf-0019bb2963f4.html
Fairbanks News Miner:
http://www.newsminer.com/view/full_story/17791903/article-Invitational-becomes-Idita-ordeal-for-Fairbanks-competitors-?instance=home_features_lead_story1
http://www.newsminer.com/view/full_story/17703734/article-Fairbanks-cyclists-pull-out-of-Iditarod-Trail-Invitational?
Capitol City Weekly:
http://capitalcityweekly.com/stories/030712/out_965513941.shtml
Huffington Post by Kirsten Dixon:
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/kirsten-dixon/a-humanpowered-race-throu_b_1304331.html
2011 news articles & stories
Louise Kobin's 2011 race story
Jay & Tracey Petervary on the Iditarod Blog
Billy Koitzsch video on the Iditarod Insider
Alaska Dispatch by Craig Medred
Iditarod Invitational: Blowhole blasts cyclist on way to Nome March 21, 2011
Iditarod Invitational: Senior woman sets record for hikers March 7, 2011
Iowa' tough guy' ends up in hospital after Invitational March 6, 2011
Iditarod Invitational:Basinger wins Kobin sets new women's record March 4, 2011
Iditarod Invitational: Call of the wild under aurora borealis March 3, 2011
Anchorage man scores 5th win in Iditarod Trail Invitational race March 3, 2011
Human-powered Iditarod reaches Rainy Pass March 3, 2011
Iditarod Invitational: 'The Fingerlake one lap penalty' March 2, 2011
Iditarod Invitational: God smiles on competitors March 1, 2011
Iditarod Invitational:Some racers struggle to stay on the trail February 28, 2011
An invite to the Iditarod Invitational February 26, 2011
Anchorage Daily News by Mike Campbell
Kobin lops 20-plus hours off Iditarod Invitational record March 3, 2011
'Unbeatable' Basinger does it again March 2, 2011
Petervary's trek begins with Iditarod Invitational March 26, 2011
Fairbansk News Miner by Tim Mowry
Basinger takes home Iditarod Invitational title March 2, 2011
Basinger and his bicycle lead Iditarod Invitational March 2, 2011
Basinger leading, Oatley chasing in Iditarod Trail Invitational March 1, 2011
Mat-Su Valley Frontiersman by Andrew Wellner
Ultimate Challenge
Racer's 2010 write-ups:
Sean Grady
Louise Kobin
Phil Hofstetter
Dave Pramann
2010 PRESS
All the way to Nome, by foot, bike or snowgo March 30, by Craig Medred AK Dispatch
Mark falls in Iditarod Invitational March 22, 2010 by Mike Campbell ADN
New record set in human powered Iditarod March 5, 2010 by Craig Medred AK Dispatch
Defending champ defeated in Iditarod Trail Invitational March 4, 2010 by Jill Burke ADN
Anchorage cyclist Basinger wins Iditarod Invitational March 4, 2010 by Mike Campbell ADN
Basinger headed toward finish line March 3, 2010 by Mike Campbell ADN
Human powered Iditarod reaches Rainy Pass March 3,2010 by Craig Medred AK Dispatch
Warm trail punishes Iditarod ultramarathoners March 2,2010 by Craig Medred AK Dispatch
Basinger puts the hurt on Iditarod Invitational field March 2, 2010 by Mike Campbell ADN
Human-powered Iditarodders reach Skwentna March 1,2010 by Craig Medred AK Dispatch
Threesome leads pack at Iditarod Invitational March 1,2010 by Mike Campbell ADN
The call of the wild Feb. 27, 2010 by Craig Medred AK Dispatch
April 2, 2009 Velo News by Robbie Stout
Snow machine: Jeff Oatley's Rig for the Iditarod Trail Invitational
Great 2009 race reports by
Sean Grady, biker
Cory Smith, skier
Phil Hofstetter, biker
Louise Kobin, biker
Aidan Harding, biker
Press 2009
Anchorage Daily News
Checkpoint of Iditarod offers glimpse into past
March 15, 2009 by Kevin Klott
Invitational cyclist rescued
March 13, 2009 by Craig Medred
Oatley wins 'short' Iditarod Invitational race
March 10, 2009 by Mike Campbell
Missing endurance racer rescued
March 8, 2009 by Craig Medred and Megan Holland
Iditarod Trail Invitational cyclist has been missing since Tuesday
March 7, 2009 by Craig Medred
Wilderness race leaders power through pass
March 6, 2009 by Craig Medred
Storm traps wilderness racers on Iditarod Trail
March 5, 2009 by Craig Medred
Oatley rolling rapidly in Iditarod Invitational
March 3, 2009 by Craig Medred
Oatley plows through snow for race lead
March 2, 2009 by Craig Medred
Oatley captures Iditarod Invitational
February 27th, 2009 by Mike Campbell
Basinger swaps bike for skis in race to Nome
February 23, 2009 by Craig Medred
The loneliness of the long-distance winter race
Fairbanks Newsminer
March 7, 2009 by Matias Saari
Melburnian Yair Kellner rescued during Iditarod race in Alaska
March 9, 2009 Herald Sun Australia by Carly Crawford
Press 2008
race report by racer Tim Stern
Anchorage Daily News
Iditarod Trail Invitational ready to roll January 19th, 2009
New York Times
Sport Meets Survival: An Iditarod Without Dogs December 24th, 2008
by Mike Brick includes Video
Nome Nugget
Idita-bikers finish grueling trip to Nome April 3, 2008
Anchorage Daily News
by Craig Medred
Think mushing to Nome is tough? Try pedaling it April 12, 2008
Iditarod Trail Invitational promises a slog Feb.24,2008
Camraderie comes before competion in Invitational March1,2008
Redington broke more trails than just Iditarod March 2,2008
Nome-bound bikers exit McGrath March 2,2008
Visitor sets record March 4,2008
Suffering on the trail March 9,2008
Fairbanks Daily News Miner
by Tim Mowry
Rocky Reifenstuhl, Alaska's pedaling patriarch, is riding to Nome February 21, 2008
Reifenstuhl, other bikers reach Yukon River March 6, 2008
Pain forces Reifenstuhl to pull out of Invitational March 20, 2008
Jackson Hole News & Guide
Petervary finds limit in Alaska March 19,2008
Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Iditarod race a gigantic test of perseverance January 27,2008
Runner Hewitt finishes third Iditarod March 28,2008
1908 Goodwin expedition report
Press 2007
Anchorage Daily
News
Anchorage cyclist is on record
pace Feb.27, 2007
Race leader Basinger falls, gets
up 100 times Feb. 28, 2007
Mountainbiker Basinger sets
Invitational record March 1, 2007
Mushing trail looks slick, bumpy or bare March 2,
2007
Fairbanks Daily
News Miner
Anchorage rider leads human Iditarod Feb. 27, 2007
Basinger on verge of human Iditarod win Feb. 28, 2007
Basinger breaks extreme record March 1, 2007
Fairbanks cyclist finish tied March 2, 2007
Rocky Mountain
News
Athletes odometer rolls past miles of trials Feb. 3,
2007
Mother turns back from Alaskan race March 7, 2007
Radio
APRN Radio KUAC listen to new race record set in a different Iditarod
Radio Praha Interview with Nome winner Jan Kopka 4/25/07
The Iditarod Invitational 2007 - Tri247
Enjoying The Ride-Lou Kobin's Iditarod Invitational 2007
by Louise Kobin
Alaska Ultra Sport 2007.pdf
write up_2007
by
Barbara Schwarzmann
Rennbericht Iditarod Invitational 2003.pdf
www.athinwhiteline.com DVD 2001
by
Andy Heading 2002
Iditarod
Invitational 2002 - Andy Heading and Al Sheldon
Preparing
for the '02 Iditarod Trail Invitational - BIKEmagic Features
by
Andy Wilson 2004
Race
diaires from EventRate.com
by
Allan Tilling 2004
- JustRidingAlong.com - Iditarod 2004 - Iditarod invitational bike race
http://www.slickrock.co.uk/adventure/adventure.html
on
Mountainzone 2005
2005 Alaska
Ultra on MountainZone.com
Interview
with Carl Hutchings on MountainZone.com
Interview
with Kathi Merchant on MountainZone.com
Frostbitten
2006 By Carl Hutchings
Endless Google searches would deliver no end of gear
listing
and success stories on the Iditarod Trail but try as I did stories of
failures were eluding me. My logic was to learn from other’s mistakes
but I quickly learned that other than an account by Mike Curiak one of
the trails most accomplished athletes my searches were fruitless.
2006 was my third visit to Ultra Sport. Its probably
fair to say I’ve had a colourful time on the trail. In 2004 descending
through the Dalzell Gorge I crashed crossing a frozen river and nutted
the ice above my right eye. 7 miles later I’m sitting in Rohn with Bill
Merchant who’s telling me he can see the bone and I’m not advised to continue.
The Iditarod volunteers joked had I been there a week later and gone down
on all fours then an Iditarod vet would have stitched me up. 8 weeks before
the race I had an arthroscopy to remove some meniscus from my knee. They
also removed a beyond repair A.C.L. I had worked my butt of trying to
rehabilitate my knee and make race day. I had bought a fat bike, expensive
backcountry gear, not to mention the airfare from the UK. The words of
Andy Heading rang in my brain, “This just wasn’t a good enough reason
to quit”. Bill allowed me to fly to McGrath to get stitched up, 9 stitches
later I’m back on the trail. Although I was grateful for the chance to
finish the race and be recognised as a finisher it didn’t seem right.
Returning in 05 I planned to make the holy grail of
the trail, front street Nome and not to be such an attention seeking drama
queen. With a 2 inch scar above my eye as a reminder I made it through
the Dalzell gorge and I won the race to Nome establishing a new southern
route record despite being without a trail for 4 days.
It was with this experience that I find myself on the
start line in 06 entered for Nome via the northern route. I had found
an inner confidence. Well aware how unique the race is and how the Alaskan
winter has the last say I was going to Nome. I would have bet on myself
making it. Packing my bike identical to last year, using the same winter
gear I had confidence in it felt in a bizarre way like I was setting of
from Nome for lap 2. I didn’t feel like I was in an alien environment
but rather a place I felt very comfortable in. I was looking forward to
some solitude and the vagary of the trail.
Rolling into the first check point at Luce`s I was
aware we were in for a cold night. I put an extra pair of socks on as
a precaution before leaving. I was later told it was –35 F
on the Yentna River that night which surprised me. I made Skwentna by
6 am which I imagined and after sleeping for
an hour noticed my toes on my right foot were cold. With warm dry socks
and boots and probably some pushing on the trail to come I was sure my
feet would warm up. Later that evening at Finger Lake I became aware I
had frostbite.
Continuing to Puntilla in denial I arrived to learn
there was no easy recognizable trail going over Rainy Pass. I delayed
my departure having learned that some bison hunters were snowmobiling
up the pass the following morning which would give me a trail to follow.
Later that evening a wave of cyclists arrived which included Bill and
Kathi Merchant. Bill took one look at my foot and told me Nome was out
the question and at the risk of losing toes I could make McGrath. It was
what I knew but hearing this from Bill was a crushing blow. I barely slept
that night .I thought of friends and family reading I scratched on the
race updates. The humiliation, I don’t quit I kept telling myself. Failure
was talking to me and I didn’t want to listen. I was surrounded by racers,
some I could say were friends from previous years but I hated the company.
I was the lame Iditarod dog who was being left behind whilst the rest
of the team continued to Nome.
There’s a dignity and accomplishment in reaching the 350 mile finish line
in McGrath. Despite this McGrath was a check point for me and my goal
was Nome. Realising the impossibility of nursing frostbite on the trail
for 3 weeks and a foot that would fit in my boot only with discomfort
I waited for a plane whilst I watched the racers head for the pass. What
happened over Rainy Pass, the Farewell Burn and the Kuskokwim River will
be talked about for years. I wish I had experienced it. Flying high over
the frozen tundra I reflected on reaching Nome last year and suddenly
it meant so much more to me. I thought of our friends Jasper, John, Peter
and Tracy I wouldn’t be seeing this year. I also realised my mistake I
had made the first night at Luce`s, putting on 2 pairs of thick expedition
capilene socks. I had squeezed my foot in my boots and restricted the
circulation. I hadn’t realised my feet were getting cold. Usually I would
double up with a thin base layer sock then an expedition weight. Why I
had deviated from a tried and proven set up is anyone’s guess but it’s
a lesson learned. You never stop learning on the Iditarod Trail its just
some mistakes are costly. It’s a trail which gives so many experiences.
If you play on it often enough I think it’s given that failure will be
one of them.
Iditarod
thoughts 2006 by
Adam Bartlett
It's
taken me a while to go through my photos and write this up. All
I remember about this year’s Iditarod Trail Invitational is the 20 hours
between Puntilla and Rohn. I remember the pass with bits and pieces of
memories before and after the pass.
Here’s what happened before the pass.
At the start we,
the racers, had fresh snow. The cyclists pushed across Knik Lake but once
we hit the trees everyone was off and pedaling. The trail was good, firm
and fun. The trip up river to Luce’s was quick. At Luce’s I ate, put on
some warm clothes, and then headed up river. The river felt unusually
cold. Even though the drinking tube from my camelback was nestled in my
clothes next to my body, it froze solid. This part of my ride was uneventful,
but cold. I took a 4 hour detour but lots of folks took wrong turns in
this part of the race so it all worked out. It just threw off my early
rest cycle a bit.
The next
checkpoint was Skwentna Roadhouse. I got to Skwentna, had breakfast with
some snowmachiners, dried my gear, laid down for a little bit and then
left as the next group of racers came into the checkpoint.
Skwentna to Fingerlake
was a highway. The Shell Hills rolled away. And the trail from Shell to
Finger Lake was hard and fast. Last year I walked this section. It took
forever. This year the good trail made me want to ride faster and faster.
I don’t think I walked an inch this year. It wasn’t just good it was self
perpetuating. Every bit I rode made me want to ride the next bit, every
time I went a little faster, it made me want more. It was good. It was
fast. I got to Finger Lake Lodge had a great meal, slept and then overslept.
As
I left Finger Lake, headed to the next checkpoint Rainy Pass Lodge at
Puntilla Lake. The combination of oversleeping and wasting 4 hours in
the beginning of the race started to get me down. I made up as much time
as I could by riding hills that I would normally walk. Again the trail
rolled away fast and easy. Eventually I realized that in a race like this
there are far, far worse things than oversleeping. Was I really upset
about getting too much rest? Is it even possible to get too much rest
on the Iditarod Trail? I had made a conscious effort to put these thoughts
out of my mind. It was a nice day, sunny and hard trails, so I enjoyed
it. I didn’t want to get bogged down in random mental detritus.
Last year, between Finger Lake and Puntilla, I found a Fig Newton, just
lying in the trail. I picked it up, popped it in my mouth and ate it before
I could think. What’s a Fig Newton doing lying in the trail? Am
I sure that’s a Fig Newton? The year before I had found an unopened
can of beer and an unopened bottle of Yukon Jack on the side of the trail
in the Susitna 100. I thought about that Fig Newton and kept an eye out
for other bits of trail food.
I got to Rainy Pass Lodge, took a brief stop, which became progressively
less brief after I gave in to the “temptation of the checkpoint”. That
is I got chatting with other racers as they came in instead of heading
out the door. I left for Rainy Pass at midnight, in a storm.
Here’s what happened on the pass.
The first bit of the
approach to the pass is mindless. All you have to do is follow these huge
tripod markers. You can’t miss it. Unless of course, there is cold wind
blowing and the trail is drifted in, then anything can happen. The wind
picked up and beat me like Ike beat Tina. I couldn’t always see the trail
but I knew when I was off it because I would sink up to my thigh, or hips.
I spent a good amount of time route finding, wallowing and wandering.
The wind got harder and colder. When I stumbled it knocked me down. There
was no where to stop. But I felt good, so I didn’t need to stop and I
didn’t want to stop. The cold was amazing. In fact the wind didn’t even
feel cold it felt hot and would burn any exposed skin like fire.
During
the pass crossing I thought about Bill Bryson. In my first draft of this
account I put a long section here about my thoughts. But, I think all
that needs to be said is that Bill’s suicide hit me like a punch in the
face and I think about him whenever I’m alone and things are quiet, which
isn’t often. There were lots of quiet alone times on the pass. In the
end, what I took from all this is to always enjoy everything, even if
I have to stop and consciously think What is good and fun here? Some people
don’t enjoy much and the world has no mercy on these people, it just closes
in and crushes them. Here is a web link to an ADN story about Bill, if
you are curious about who he was.
http://www.adn.com/news/alaska/story...-7264604c.html
The actual pass went by quickly. I snapped a few pictures and started
heading down the back side. I wanted to cover as much ground as I could
before I lost the daylight.
Once I started down I felt
a little tired and I relaxed a bit, sort of like I’d just stepped off
a roller coaster. Then I came to the spot where an avalanche swallowed
Richard Strick on February 14, 2006. The spot is marked with a moderately
sized cross made of sticks lashed together with parachute chord. The arms
of the cross have Strick’s name and dates written on the bare wood with
a sharpie marker. The head of the cross reads “Big Rock Candy Mountain”.
There’s a button with a picture of the Rohn Roadhouse in the middle. The
cross is on the left edge of the trail. All around are avalanche debris
and the obvious signs of a search. It was overwhelming.
Eventually I made it
down to the flat lands and started rolling the last miles toward Rohn.
The sunset did its thing and the weather turned dark and cold. Coming
into Rohn was relatively uneventful. I dunked my bike, feet and gear in
a slushy creek crossing and froze the rear derailleur into my lowest gear.
I noticed that the slushy water froze before soaking into my pants or
shoes.
I can’t really
describe how special crossing Rainy Pass during a storm in the middle
of the night was for me. It was magical. A few years ago when I started
doing things like this, with the Soggy Bottom 100, I was describing the
experience to some friends. Now these friends are east coast artsy types
who “feel” things when they experience art, music or nature. They are
good and special friends of mine, but over the years our lives have charted
different courses. Back in the day I always had a unique capacity for
making jokes during the most serious and serene of moments. I never quite
“got it” when everyone else would “feel” stuff. In trying to describe
being alone and exhausted in the wilderness to these guys I called the
experience a “spiritual jackhammer”. In other words “I get it now” but
it took a lot. Being out there alone in extreme conditions makes me take
life, myself and my place in the world seriously. It quiets all the noise
and lets me think, focus and relax. My mind wanders and thinks big thoughts
out there. The kind of thoughts that could either be a gift or a burden
if you thought them everyday. In fact if a person was in this mindset
every day they would, move to the south of France and paint sunflowers,
or move somewhere secluded in New England and write poetry about falling
snow or if all else failed they could go hang with my buddies in New York.
It’s special out there and it’s magic and I can’t tell you about it because
I’m not able to put the words together.
And here’s what happened after the pass.
After the pass I had done all my deep thinking for the year and I was
now able to get back to focusing on making jokes.
Two bicyclists Pierre Ostor and Rok Kovac came in a few hours behind me
despite starting almost 8 hours after I did. I slept good and hard that
night.
Rohn was cold. The next morning I stayed in my bag and waited for
it to “warm up” to 18 below before trying to move out. In Rohn I heard
about all the racers dropping out, so I rode much more conservatively
from there on. I made sure to sleep and eat as much as I needed to keep
myself strong and motivated. I also picked up two traveling companions
in Pierre and Rok. It was good to have a couple other folks to decompress
with at the checkpoints and to chat with from time to time, on the trail.
I spend most of my time training alone, riding the tail alone, camping
alone, or just mindlessly riding the trainer in front of the TV (alone).
I spend alone time in my cluttered garage, or “man cave” as my wife calls
it, looking at tools and fiddling with gear. I think it’s this way for
a lot of the racers. This year there were about 40 racers from 10 different
countries. I imagine we all had similar experiences preparing for the
race, and explaining why this stuff is fun to our friends and families,
then POW on February 25 we find ourselves on a trail with 40 other folks
who think this sort of fun is a good idea. You just can’t shut us up sometimes.
All of us solitary caterpillars turn into social butterflies when the
race starts. Racing butterflies.
Anyway I don’t know what to say about the Farewell Burn. It’s flat, except
for the hills and generally open except for the bits in the trees. It’s
just there and we all moved through it. I let my mind wander during this
stretch then I started thinking about food. After that I got the song
“Squeeze me Macaroni” by Mr. Bungle stuck in my head. Then “Egg” by the
same band. I was hungry and for better or worse I had hit the “weird food
songs” button on my mind’s jukebox.
In Nikolai I had a big dinner a good night’s sleep and a big breakfast,
then I pushed my bike the last 50 miles to McGrath. In the last 10 miles
I wanted to quit, but I didn’t. It was good.
Submitted
by Steve Reifenstuhl 5-8-05
The Iditarod Invitational or Alaska Ultra Sport
Race, formerly known as the Iditasport Extreme, begins in Knik, Alaska
and follows the Iditarod sled dog trail to McGrath, 350 miles to the northwest
across the Alaska Range. Race rules are simple: finish with the gear you
start with, food excepted, sign in at checkpoints, no outside help, and
no mandatory layovers. Also there is no mandatory gear requirement, but
if you go light, know that rescue could be 24 hours away.
The Race Saturday, February 26 I am up at 4 a.m. to catch the 6 a.m. flight
from Sitka to Anchorage. The race starts at 2 p.m., which is harsh because
I have already been up for ten hours and I know I will not sleep for another
40 hours after the gun goes off. My brother Rocky is racing on a bike
and his wife Gail on skis so I try to divert my nervous energy visiting
with them. As the time approaches noon I am more than ready to spend my
anxious energy on forward motion rather than using my teeth like a mortal
and pestle to transform adrenalin into pleasant conversation.
The race is limited to 50 racers for all categories, but only 43 show-up
by start time. A race this long doesnÕt begin to separate the wheat from
the chaff well into the event, perhaps at 100 or 200 miles, so it amazes
me when even professional and experienced racers bolt off the start line
as though they will see McGrath some time soon. The way I approach this
race is to plan, plan and plan some more. I carefully consider exactly
what I need, calculating the margin of error, and then list everything
I will take and exactly where it will be carried Ð food for 24 hours inside
main pocket of fanny pack, food for second 24 hours in green stuff sack
inside sled; or wire, tape, & mole skins in small zip pocket on my
camel back. I calculate how fast to walk, when to run and approximate
arrival time at each checkpoint. I keep all my calculations and thoughts
on a computer word document so I can modify as needed. During the final
two weeks of preparation I pour over all the details so now at race time
I can recite all the minutiae from memory.
As everyone charges off the start line I continue to repeat my mantras
of correct pacing, perspiration regulation, hydration intervals and caloric
intake. The main thing I need to be cognizant of is how many runners are
in front of me, so I count. This way, if I am lucky, I can tick them off
as I rein them in over the next 100 miles.
Daylight diminishes to dark near Flathorn Lake (25 miles) and I don my
LED headlamp with 125-hour battery operating life. I check in at LuceÕs
cabin at 1 a.m., just 11 hours into the race, I feel tried and have trouble
eating much. I am pushing a little harder than planned because there is
at least one-foot racer ahead and one just behind me with definite plans
that donÕt reconcile with mine. At the checkpoints I get a fix on how
far ahead the lead runner is, but the position of racers behind me remains
a mystery. At Yentna Station (55mile) I decide to stop for a couple of
Cokes to see if they will settle my stomach, it is 4 a.m., and I need
to get my stomach under control or I will soon be in desperate trouble.
I see Martin Buser at the bar with an empty stool next to him and I ask
if I may sit down. I acknowledge Martin, while the bartender makes some
snide comments suggesting I am a pesky tourist from Hoboken, New Jersey.
Martin, however, is quite interested in what I am doing so I chat with
him longer than I should. When I answer Martin's queries he just sits
there saying "Wow", and shaking his head. I offer that I am
like his dogs, and he shoots back "that is for sure". He continues
to shake his head as I leave. As I harness myself to the sled I know Martin
Buser is one person who truly understands what this race requires to win.
Daylight is a welcome relief after the long night, but I am still having
some difficulty getting food and water down. I am working at a greater
deficit than I should and it is going to catch up to me. I force down
a handful of salty almonds, perhaps 150 calories, and chase it with some
water from my Camelbak. At 10 a.m., ~80 miles, I think I can discern from
the tracks a shortening stride of the racer in front of me. This makes
me realize that I need to work harder at getting more food and drink down.
By noon I am closing in on Skwentna (90 mile) and I spy Tom a _ mile off.
As if a switch trips in my brain Ð the food, drink, and self-flagellation
I have been imbibing finally takes hold. I increase my pace to catch Tom
and as I pass he posits that he wasn't able to keep anything down and
has pushed too hard.
There is a fine line between one's maximum sustainable effort and the
abyss beyond, Tom crossed it and would drop out of the race. I continually
listen to my internal feedback and sort the real warning signs from the
constant background of pain, fatigue, need for sleep, and hunger. Experience
helps, but is no guarantee for staying out of trouble. I have dropped
out of one race and had to rest/sleep for 12 hours in another due to crossing
that crippling threshold.
Right now though, as I enter Skwentna at 1 p.m., I am feeling a convergence
of all the right feedback loops. I have been going for 23 hours, but spend
only 2 minutes to transit the checkpoint; I am almost hovering as I depart
for Shell Lake, 20 miles away. I am ahead of my game plan, feeling no
need for sleep at the moment, and believe I can make it to Finger Lake,
40 miles and 13 hours away without rest. It is sunny, relatively warm
and daylight - making it easier to navigate the knot of snow machine tracks
radiating from Skwentna. In retrospect the next 10 hours are the most
enjoyable of the race because the weather is ideal, the sun is in my face,
sleep deprivation has not caught up with me, and I am eating and drinking
adequately.
I figure there are at least two racers who have a chance of catching me
as I head for the Alaska Range. The current record holder (2003) who I
had edged out in 2001 was somewhere behind me but I will not learn where
until two days later. I don't want to get caught but I mostly concentrate
on maintaining my pace and getting to Finger Lake for my first sleep of
the race. As I near a checkpoint I review exactly what I need to accomplish
and how much time I will allow for each task Ð foot repair, sleep, eating
hot food Ð even though I am exhausted and it would be easy to slip into
a dazed stupor.
It is a dark, starry night as I gain elevation into the foothills of the
Alaska Range; traversing snow covered frozen muskegs and weaving in and
out of dense spruce coppices. As I exit one of the numerous spruce thickets
I am shocked to see a dense green band of light on the horizon far in
the distance. The band is thick, and not shimmering like the northern
lights, and also I see what I think is the curve of the earth as the band
of green light bends away from me, far on the horizon. I have not been
hallucinating, that will be tomorrow night, and immediately think Saturn
is crashing into the earth. I know this can't be true but it resembles
Saturn more than any northern lights I have ever seen. I continue to walk
hard, but can't take my eyes off the collision of earth and space. Finally,
after a couple of minutes the dense green band begins to shimmer and they
take on the appearance of the Aurora. Still the affect of these lights
low on the horizon rather than emanating from above is new to me. The
northern light show that night and the next are outstanding. If I had
a tripod and single-lens reflex camera I would give ten minutes of race
time to photograph the scene; I don't but fortunately it will be forever
etched in my mind. Such penetrating scenes are a large part of the allure
and fascination of this race
Trail conditions are punchy and uneven the final 10 miles into Finger
Lake, and walking takes all my concentration to maintain a good pace.
At 1:30 a.m. to my relief, I see the dim lights of the checkpoint cabin,
so I give a final mental review to how I will use the next 3 hours. I
wake up the race official so I can check in; losing these two minutes
feels like a set-back but I shake it off and quickly doff my outer clothing,
shoes, socks, and hang them up to dry. I fill a plate with beans, rice,
chicken breast and garlic bread provided by the Winter Lake Lodge; the
warm food is like a potent revitalizing elixir. I know it is imperative
that I eat as much as possible while at the checkpoint. Although I am
eating on the trail, the input is far below the calories I am expending
which I estimate at 400/hour or about 16,000 calories since the start
of the race. If lucky, I consume about a third of that amount on the trail,
but it is more likely to be only 25%. Proper training allows me to get
away with this; my body learns to utilize body fat efficiently. Each pound
of fat yields 3,200 calories and by the end of the race I trade approximately
5 pounds of this high calorie energy store for 150 trail miles.
Thirty minutes of eating, drinking, drying and I lie down for two hours
of sleep, but I am restless and the noise of bike racers wakes me even
though I am exhausted. Two hours passes much too quickly and the wrist
watch alarm goes off next to my ear where it is stuffed in my balaclava
so there is no chance of oversleeping. I estimate I slept for only one
hour of the allotted two, although horizontal rest counts for something.
I get up quickly, dress, and eat another plate of food; last, I re-supply
stores from my drop bag, one of two drops flown out ahead of time.
I sign out at 4:30 a.m. and begin to work out the stiffness and pain in
my legs as I find my way up the trail that leads farther into the heart
of the Alaska Range. The trail conditions are terrible; high ridges and
narrow troughs laid down by a snow machine sled are frozen hard as rock
due to below zero temperatures. These irregularities from the Iditarod
Trail's idea of a frozen bundt cake twist and pull at my ankles. Over
the next 10 hours my feet get worked so hard that blisters erupt on the
sides of my big toes, heels and sides of my feet.
At 2:40 in the afternoon I pull into Puntilla Lake checkpoint (165 mile),
3 hours sooner than I expected; the one-hour sleep back at Finger really
helped. Based on the way I am feeling, time of day (4 more hours of light),
and desire to not lose any of the precious time I have gained, I make
efficient and quick use of the checkpoint. After 20 minutes I am headed
for Rainy Pass, 20 miles away. Rohn is the next checkpoint at mile 210,
forty miles away.
The trail to Rainy Pass is difficult to follow
due to 30 mile per hour head and cross winds that blow snow and cover
the snow machine markings. Worse, this large valley is a playground for
local snow machine trails that look like the venation of a deciduous leaf.
I study my map carefully and check my compass several times to assure
myself I am on the correct route; a wrong turn now will be devastating.
I will not only loose time but daylight. Added to this, exhaustion is
creeping in at the fringes. Finally though, just before dark, the trail
I am following arrives at the base of Rainy Pass and I stop worrying.
Hallucinations and sleep deprivation hammer me for the next several hours
as I ascend Rainy Pass. One hour of sleep in 56 hours and180 miles of
hard racing. I am falling asleep on my feet and my brain is begging me
to stop. I have a dialogue with my brain, promising sleep if it will let
me get to Rainy Pass first. My racing self loses, I cannot stay awake
and I dig a snow hole, get in my insulated jacket, pants and scrunch down
in my bivouac bag for two hours of non-sleep. It must have been rest because
as I get going at 1 a.m. I tear up the mountain and down into Rohn by
5:30 a.m. I go through the same routine as the previous checkpoint but
this time I sleep soundly for two hours. At 8:30 in the morning I am ripping
up the trail; knowing I got some meaningful rest is a big psychological
boost. It is 10 below zero as I head down a branch of the Kuskokwim River,
and I am sensing that breaking the course record is not only feasible
but also likely. My reality check is the 140 hard miles that still lie
ahead.
The Farewell Burn unfolds for the next 50 miles and is a unique landscape
north of the Alaska Range; Denali is visible from here and the massive
feature creates a snow shadow, and I drag my sled for several miles across
frozen ground without a trace of snow. In the 1950Õs, state officials
trans-located bison to this area, and the bison have proliferated. Now
hunters come from all over Alaska to get a prize animal. I strain to see
one but find only their leavings Ð hundreds of grapefruit size, frozen
scat. I visualize these dark-brown, dense turds being used for Arctic
Bocce, an Italian form of bowling, and chuckle to myself.
Racing during the daylight with some warmth from the sun feels like a
gift from God. Everything is easier, sleep deprivation isn't constantly
weighing on my eyelids, no headlamp bobbing on my head, and the trail
is a cinch to navigate. Hallucinations however are just as bad, day or
night. I have a constant conversation going on in my mind, sometimes it
is Rocky, with whom I did this very route in 2001, sometimes it is with
an unknown person, but in any case I suddenly realize I am conversing
as if someone is actually here with me. I tell Rocky dozens of stories,
then realize that I couldn't have, but still in my mind it seems like
I have. I find myself worrying that I will forget to tell Rocky the story
later because my mind on some level believes that I have already told
him. The circular thinking continued around and around. Often I see my
shadow from the sun and I move left or right because I think I am crowding
someone and being rude. Another hallucination that occurs several times
is when I turn my head to look left or right and suddenly hear the sound
of my sled trailing behind me. Simultaneously I turn further and jump
with fright at the sight of it, completely forgetting it has been trailing
me for over 200 miles.
Darkness comes too quickly today, day 3, and I need more sleep, so as
I near Buffalo Camp (255 mile) at 11:00 p.m., I plan out my checkpoint
strategy. I decide to sleep 3 hours and then not sleep again until the
finish line. It is optimistic but doable. I think. Unfortunately I can't
sleep the full 3 hours but I get a solid two hours and leave a half-hour
early at 2:30 a.m. I feel good leaving Buffalo Camp, it is 20 below and
I wear my Patagonia puffball jacket to keep the cold at bay. After a half
hour on the trail, I slip into a battle with sleep for four hours until
daylight rescues me near the Sullivan Creek crossing.
I cruise into Nikolai at 2 in the afternoon and I am feeling good, but
my feet are shot. I have blisters on top of blisters and they are spread
across the bottoms of my feet. I take my shoes off to dry my socks and
take a look at my feet. I don't have any more moleskins of adequate size
to put on the massive blisters. Putting my shoes back on makes me sick
to my stomach. A stabbing pain rises from my feet and hurts my head, and
then it descends back to my feet where it resides and intensifies. I want
to scream but the checkpoint host, Nick, might report me as incapable
of continuing.
I still have 50 miles to McGrath; the 14 hours it will take seems interminable,
but the problem is my feet. The pain is so intense I can barely endure
it. It takes me 20 minutes to get up to race pace before the pain synapses
fail or maybe my mind just shuts off the torment of neuron referrals.
This is a thankful threshold to arrive at and I promise myself I will
not stop again, for anything, until I get to the finish line. I don't
want to experience this pain threshold again. I keep my promise and in
fact increase the pace for the next 15 miles to 4 miles per hour, believing
that the faster I get there the sooner I can stop.
As Nikolai disappears behind me I advance toward the abyss and the finish
line at the same time; I just keep telling myself I can tell the difference.
I eat only when my energy level plummets, a sure sign I need calories.
The change is instantaneous when I shovel some cashews in my mouth. My
body physiology has changed or at least my involuntary brain-function
knows there is something terribly wrong. Even though I am taking in water,
my body is miserly with expenditure to defend against dehydration - perspiration,
urination, and salivary glands have just about shut down. In fact, it
will be a week after the race before my body comes back into a normal
water balance.
The edge with which I am dancing is where the mind can make the body perform beyond what is believed to be possible.
It is spiritual, it is dreamlike, it penetrates to my core and when I
come back from it, I know I was there, and it beckons for months afterward.
My emotional state is raw and I know I will sob when I get to the finish
line, but I will not let myself cross that threshold now, not until I
know it is the absolute finish. Once I allow that emotional state in,
it will consume me and I will not be able to get back to the "altered
state". At the finish line in McGrath, the physical and the emotional
unite in a crescendo of emotion, pain, elation... and the "other"
becomes a memory. This unique reality has been reached by the passage
of miles, time, physical exertion, psychological strain, and sleep deprivation.
It is so close to me, yet a world away.
© Alaska Ultra Sport LLC 2011. All rights reserved.
|